Understanding Whiskey
by John Hansell, Publisher & Editor, Malt Advocate magazine
Whiskey isn’t the easiest drink to embrace. Its alcohol
level is much higher than beer or wine, and some of the names, like those of
Gaelic-rooted Scotch whiskies, can be difficult to pronounce. Whiskeys, though,
are rich and diverse in flavors—more than any other distilled spirit. At their
extreme, the really smoky, peat-infused Scotch whiskies can be downright
challenging.
But many of life’s great pleasures are acquired tastes and
worth the pursuit. For many, whiskey is just as much an adventure as it is a
drink. It invites you to explore and indulge in its diversity. Each country
traditionally produces its own style of whiskey, but even within that style
there is an incredible range of whiskeys to choose from.
SO WHAT IS WHISKEY?
Whiskey is made from grain. This is what distinguishes it
from other distilled beverages like brandy, which is made from grapes, and
calvados, which is made from apples.
Simply speaking, whiskey is nothing more than distilled
beer. Like beer, malted barley and other grains are the source of the sugars
necessary for fermentation. The sugars in the grain are released by steeping it
in hot water. This sweet liquid, known as “wort”, is cooled down. Yeast is
added and converts the sugars to alcohol, creating beer.
The major difference between the “beer” that whiskey-makers
produce (often called “wash”) and the beer that brewers create is that the
brewers also add hops to their beer. Hops, the flowering cones of a climbing
plant, are bitter and help balance a beer’s sweetness. They also act as a
preservative to stabilize the beer’s flavor. Distiller’s beer doesn’t need
hops. Oak aging balances the whiskey’s flavors, and distilling increases the
alcohol level, which preserves the whiskey.
To make whiskey from beer, it must be distilled. Distilling
captures and concentrates the beer’s more volatile components, which include
alcohol. The distillers use either continuously-operating column stills (as with
most bourbons) or copper pot stills (as with single malt scotch), one batch at
a time. This spirit is then aged in oak barrels, where it matures and becomes
whiskey. The types of grain used, the distillation method, and the casks chosen
for aging are what make each whiskey taste different.
Scotch whisky
Scotland has more distilleries than any country, with close
to 100 of them peppered throughout the land. The most distinctive Scotch
whiskies are the single malts. In addition to being distilled and matured in
Scotland for a minimum of three years in oak barrels (a requirement for all
Scotch whisky), single malt scotch is produced at one distillery (“single”),
using only malted barley as the grain (“malt”), and distilled in copper pot
stills. It is an expensive process but produces a richly flavored whisky and,
because it’s not blended with whiskies from other distilleries, very
individualistic. This is why single malt scotch is generally more expensive
than blended scotch and coveted by aficionados. It’s also the reason why single
malts are so much fun to drink and explore.
Single malts are diverse in flavor, ranging from the gentle
and subtly complex whiskies of the Scottish Lowlands, to the firmer, sometimes
spicy whiskies in the Highlands , to the briny and often smoky whiskies from
the Scottish coastlines and islands. The heart of Scottish distilling is an
area known as Speyside, where nearly half of Scotland’s distilleries are
situated on—or near—the Spey River. Some Speyside whiskies, like Balvenie and
Macallan, are full-bodied and rich. Others, like the Glenlivet 12 year old, are
very elegant.
Even with all these great single malts, blended scotch still
outsells them by a wide margin. Single malt enthusiasm is a relatively recent
phenomenon, gaining popularity over the past two decades.
Blended scotches, like Johnnie Walker, Dewar’s, Chivas, and
Cutty Sark, are marriages of several, if not dozens of different single malts.
The advantage of blending is that it smoothes out the rough edges and fills in
the missing gaps of a whisky’s flavor profile.
Probably the least known fact about blended scotch is that
the majority of the blend is not single malt scotch at all, but rather grain
whisky. Grain whisky is made from various cereal grains and distilled in
continuous column stills, similar to the way vodka is made. It produces a less
expensive, lighter flavored whisky. Some blends are incredible products, but
are usually lighter in flavor and less expensive than single malts.
Many people think all Scotch whiskies are smoky, but only a
handful of them really are. The smoke flavor comes from using malted barley
that is dried over a peat fire. Peat was, at one time, the only practical fuel
source for many distilleries. These days it’s an optional flavor enhancement
that, by the way, is very much in vogue right now.
Irish whiskey
In contrast to Scotch whisky production, there are only four
working Irish distilleries, and only three are currently selling whiskey. The
small number of Irish distilleries explains the disparity between the amounts
of Scotch whiskies on the market when compared to the number of Irish whiskeys.
When comparing the differences between Irish whiskey to
Scotch whisky, people will often say that the difference is that Irish whiskey
is distilled three times (producing a lighter flavor), while scotch is only
distilled twice. The other argument is that Irish whiskey is not smoky, and
Scotch whisky is. These generalizations are accurate for many whiskeys, but not
all of them.
Irish whiskeys, like Jameson, contain "pure pot
still" whiskey. Pure pot still whiskey is unique to Ireland. Unlike single
malt scotch that is made from malted barley, pure post still whiskey comes from
malted and unmalted barley that gives many Irish whiskeys their distinctive
flavor.
American whiskey
The most well-known style of whiskey in the United States is
bourbon. It is so popular now, both in the United States and abroad, our
distillers can’t make enough of the stuff. Bourbons, like Jim Beam, Wild
Turkey, and Ridgemont Reserve, fit in a category known as “straight whiskeys,”
and if you look closely enough on a bourbon label, you’ll see it identified
that way.
A straight whiskey must meet strict requirements. It has to
be made in the United States (and while nearly all bourbon is made in Kentucky
right now, it doesn’t legally have to be), and its grain formula, known as the
“mash bill,” must contain at least 51% corn. It can’t be distilled higher than
80% alcohol (by volume) or go into the barrel for aging higher than 62.5%
alcohol, and has to be aged in new charred oak barrels for a minimum of two
years. These requirements are designed to maintain the quality and consistency
of bourbon.
Other straight whiskeys, like straight rye whiskeys and
straight wheat whiskeys must meet similar requirements. The only difference is
that rye or wheat is the main grain (respectively), rather than corn.
If you walk into a bar and ask for a bourbon, there’s a good
chance you’ll get Jack Daniel’s. This is probably the biggest misunderstanding
in the world of whiskey. It’s a Tennessee whiskey and made just like
bourbon—except for one additional step in the process. After the spirit is
distilled, and before it is put into charred oak barrels for aging, it is
charcoal mellowed through vats of sugar maple charcoal. This changes the flavor
profile of the whiskey—which some describe as mellower, gently sweeter, and slightly
sooty when compared to bourbon—making it distinctly Tennessee whiskey.
While bourbon has to be made from a mash of at least 51%
corn; in reality, it usually is made with 70-80% corn. The remainder consists
of rye and malted barley. You can think of rye as the “spice” ingredient of
bourbon. It doesn’t have to be used, but it has a significant impact on the
flavor profile. If you’ve ever tasted rye bread, then you understand rye’s
contribution to bourbon.
But some bourbon producers replace the rye with wheat. Wheat
changes the flavor profile in its own way. “Wheated” bourbons, like Maker's
Mark, are less bold and more approachable. Some drinkers like the easy-going
style of wheated bourbons, while others enjoy the boldness of more traditional
rye-spiced bourbons.
Largely ignored for decades, straight rye whiskeys have made
a huge comeback and create a distinctive impact when used in cocktails, making
it very a trendy ingredient right now for mixologists.
Canadian whisky
Canadian whisky is the lightest example from the major
whisky distilling countries. That’s because Canadian whisky traditionally
consists of a blend of two components: a base whisky and a flavoring whisky.
The base whisky, usually made from corn, is very light in flavor and comprises
the large majority of the whisky’s make-up. The flavoring whisky, often one
with a high rye content, makes up the rest.
Ironically, Canadian law allows Canadian whisky to be called
Canadian Whisky, Canadian Rye Whisky, or Rye Whisky, even though the actual
amount of rye in the grain mixture is usually very small, and much less than
corn. There is a huge difference between Canadian “rye” whiskies and American
“straight rye” whiskeys. The straight ryes produced in the United States are
considerably bolder and more challenging. Canadian “rye” drinkers are often
confused and overwhelmed by the intensity of the straight rye whiskeys from the
United States, where the largest ingredient must be rye.
Canadian whisky’s lighter style makes it appealing
year-round, even in the warm summer months when other whiskeys might be too
heavy. While most people think of Canadian whiskies as mixing whiskies,
something to be drunk on the rocks or with soda, there are also some fine
Canadian whiskies that you can sip neat, like Crown Royal Reserve or the new
Canadian Club 30 year old, both of which are worth seeking out.
APPRECIATING WHISKY
If you’re drinking whiskey just for fun, and aren’t
interested in learning more about your whiskey, then go ahead and drink it
however you like. You paid for it and you earned that right. However, if you
want to capture as many aromas and flavors as possible, then try to understand
that whiskey expresses itself best at room temperature. I know you are tempted
to just go ahead and drink the whiskey, but don’t. Not just yet, anyway.
Look
Before you do anything, look at the whiskey. You can learn a
lot about your whiskey by its color. Generally speaking, the darker the
whiskey, the older it is, because whiskey gets its color from being in contact
with the oak barrel during aging.
The type of barrel also matters. For example, if a Scotch
whisky is being aged in a bourbon barrel that has been used several times over,
it’s not going to pick up much color from the barrel. However, if that same
whiskey was put in a cask that contained sherry or port wine, it will pick up
some of the colors of the wine, in addition to those of oak barrel.
I must also warn you that some whiskeys (particularly those
that are younger) contain caramel coloring to make them look “the way we think
whiskey should look”, because young whiskeys haven’t had enough contact time
with the oak barrel, and will appear lighter in color.
Smell
Realize that you can smell more from your whiskey than you
will ever be able to taste. In fact, all the master blenders work primarily by
nosing, not by tasting. So do yourself a favor and smell your whiskey before
you taste it. Don’t thrust your nose into the glass, because the alcohol will
be too dominant. Gently raise the whiskey up to your nose until you begin
capturing its aroma.
Think about what you smell. Often, but not always, a
whiskey’s aroma will be a good indication of how it will taste.
Taste
Now go ahead and taste the whiskey. Make sure you coat your
entire tongue and let it linger on the palate for a little while before
swallowing. Is it thick on your palate or thin? What flavors do you taste? Does
the whiskey taste the same way it smells? Do the flavors evolve on the palate
or just stay the same? After you swallow, does the flavor fade away quickly or
does it linger on the palate? Most importantly, did you like it?
For many of you, the alcohol will just be too intense to
fully appreciate the whiskey. I recommend that you add a little water to your
whiskey, then nose and taste the whiskey again, I suggest that you add a little
bit at a time (a few drops) and keep adding until you find your comfort zone.
Adding water brings out more of the whiskey’s aroma. It also lowers the alcohol
level, reducing its numbing effect on the palate.
Reading
the Label
Reading a whiskey’s label can be very daunting. This guide
will help you understand what’s inside the bottle, what it means to you, and
help you find a whiskey you will enjoy.
To “e” or not to “e”?
Depending on the country of origin, “whiskey” is spelled
with or without an “e.” American whiskeys, like bourbon, rye, and Tennessee
whiskey, usually spell their whiskey with an “e.” Irish whiskeys also retain
the “e.” Scotch and Canadian whiskies are spelled without the “e.”
What is “finishing”?
Many whiskeys spend most of their lives in one cask, but
then are put into a different type of cask for a brief time before bottling.
This practice is known as “finishing,” and you will often see this identified
on the whiskey’s label. Finishing is used to a great extent with Scotch
whiskies. Most scotches are initially aged in used bourbon barrels. Finishing
them in a wine cask, like sherry or port, or perhaps even a used rum cask, will
add new dimensions of flavors. It is also a quick way, from a marketing
standpoint, for a distillery to introduce a new whiskey to the market.
Is it from a single cask?
When a distiller bottles a whiskey, it generally comes from
a marriage of casks produced at that distillery. This ensures consistency of
flavors. Only a small percentage of whiskeys are bottled one cask at a time,
and they are usually identified on the label as such. Since each barrel of
whiskey tastes different (even when from the same distillery), single cask
bottlings are the most individualistic.
How old is it?
If a whiskey has an age statement on the label, then all the
whiskey in that bottle must be at least that old. For example, if a distillery
combines 12, 15, and 18 year old barrels of whiskeys, the age statement on the
label can’t be more than 12 years old. Remember: whiskey only ages in the
barrel, not in the bottle.
What’s its strength?
All whiskeys must contain at least 40% alcohol by volume
(ABV), or 80 proof (proof is twice the alcohol level.), though there are
whiskies on the market that are over 70% ABV (140 proof)! Usually, after
whiskey is taken from the barrel, water is added to bring it down to the
strength that the producer wants to sell it at. Sometimes a whiskey is bottled
at the same strength it came out of the barrel. This is often referred to on
the label as Barrel Proof or Natural Cask Strength.
Is it chill-filtered?
A whiskey will get hazy or cloudy if its temperature is
lowered (e.g., if ice or cold water is added). Most whiskey companies think
cloudy whiskey is unappealing and will hurt sales. To prevent this, before the
whiskey is bottled, they chill it down and filter out the components that make
it cloudy. Unfortunately, those components (known as congeners) also contribute
to a whiskey’s flavor. Some producers bottle the whiskey without
chill-filtering, and this is usually identified and explained on the label.
Conducting a whiskey tasting
The most exciting thing about whiskey is its diversity of
flavors, which is the reason why conducting a whiskey tasting (and attending
one) is so much fun. Comparing and contrasting whiskeys is also a great way to
learn more about them.
Invite the right people
Before you begin to think of the kinds of whiskeys you’ll be
pouring, make sure you have the right audience. They should be open-minded
whiskey drinkers, or people who aren’t whiskey drinkers but are curious and
interested in learning about whiskey.
Pick a theme
You have hundreds of whiskeys to choose from. Come up with
an interesting theme. Consider tasting them “blind,” so you don’t know what
whiskey you are tasting (and won’t have any pre-conceived opinions).
Use the proper glassware
Use clear glassware that closes toward the top to capture
the whiskey’s aroma. There are several new nosing and tasting glasses that have
been introduced which you could use but small brandy snifters or white wine
glasses will work just fine. Make sure your glassware is clean and free of
detergent. If you washed the glasses in a dishwasher, rinse them out with water
before using. If you’re reusing the glasses throughout the evening, make sure
they are rinsed thoroughly between flights.
Don’t serve too many whiskeys
Six to eight whiskeys are plenty—especially if you’re
swallowing. If you taste too many whiskies, your palate will eventually become
fatigued. One-half ounce pour for each whisky is enough. Have a dump bucket
available so tasters can dump whiskeys they don't want to finish. Taste another
whiskey every ten minutes or so. That, combined with some light snacks and
additional conversation at the end, will make for an enjoyable two-hour
tasting.
Have plenty of water
Have two sources of water: one for drinking and one for
adding to your whiskey. Make sure the water you have for your whiskey is
non-carbonated, room temperature, and clean (e.g. spring water).
Serve the right food
For your first whiskey tasting, serve the food before or
after the tasting. Whiskey and food do go well together in under certain
circumstances but, for your first tasting, you should keep it simple and just
focus on the whiskey. If you are serving food before the tasting, don’t serve
anything spicy. Hot peppers and garlic will ruin your experience. You might
just want to serve some water and crackers before and during the tasting, and
enjoy more substantial food after you’ve finished. But if you’re cooking
aromatic foods for your guests during the event, make sure the tasting is done
in a location far from those aromas.
Exchange ideas and thoughts
Discuss what you smell and taste. It will help you discover
more aromas and flavors, and it will make you a better taster. What did you
like about the whiskey? What turned you off? Why? If you think you might forget
some of what you learned (and you probably will), take notes. Keep a whiskey diary.
Have a designated driver
Don’t drink and drive! Bring a friend or spouse as your
driver, or take public transportation.
Have fun
Don’t get too serious or analytical. The primary purpose of
drinking whiskey (or anything else in life for that matter), is to have fun and
enjoy the experience. Don’t lose sight of that.
Whiskey isn’t the easiest drink to embrace. Its alcohol level is much higher than beer or wine, and some of the names, like those of Gaelic-rooted Scotch whiskies, can be difficult to pronounce. Whiskeys, though, are rich and diverse in flavors—more than any other distilled spirit. At their extreme, the really smoky, peat-infused Scotch whiskies can be downright challenging.
New
Whiskey Trends
The
whiskey industry is more dynamic now than any time in the past 50 years. Here’s
what’s happening, what you can learn from it, and how you can benefit.
Eliminating
age statements
The
whiskey in a bottle can’t be any younger than the age on the label. Many
distillers are now shunning age statements on their labels. This is significant
right now, given that many young whiskeys will be entering the market over the
next several years due to recent increases in production levels. Distillers
will be blending barrels of young whiskeys with older whiskeys, and they don’t
want to be forced to put a young age statement on the label. Instead of an age
statement, look for the whiskey to be given a creative name instead.
Going
natural
Many
whiskeys are caramel colored. Why? To make young whiskeys look old, and also to
maintain a consistent color from one bottling to the next. The problem is, most
experienced whiskey tasters swear they can taste this additive and that it
masks some of the whiskey’s true flavor.
Additionally,
most whiskeys are “chill-filtered.” This prevents the whiskey from getting
cloudy when you add ice or cold water to it. What’s wrong with this? Well, the
components that are being removed also contribute to the whiskey’s flavor.
Some
distilleries are now eliminating caramel coloring and chill-filtering to ensure
that the whiskey tastes the best it possibly can. Your clue? The whiskey might
be very light in color, and it may look hazy—or even a bit cloudy. The
distiller often notes on the label that the whiskey is not chill-filtered (or
caramel colored).
Artisan
distilling
Do
you remember the evolution of the craft beer movement in the 1980s and
1990s? Well, we are now experiencing the whiskey version of this. In the
United States alone, there currently are 202 small artisan distillers according
to the American Distilling Institute. An estimated 42 of them are making
whiskey. Many of these new startups were originally breweries. Some distillers
are actually buying their “beer” from brewers, thus focusing their efforts
primarily on distilling and aging. Dozens of artisan-distilled whiskeys are
already on the market, with many more in the pipeline. Because this industry is
still young, so are their whiskeys.
New
distilling countries
Until
the past decade or so, nearly all the world’s whiskeys were produced in
Scotland, the United States, Ireland, Canada, or Japan. Now, high-quality
whiskeys are being produced worldwide—including India, Sweden, Wales, Australia,
and a majority of European countries. Most resemble the “scotch” style, but put
their unique signature on their whiskey by tweaking the whiskey-making process
with something different (e.g., aging in unusual casks or using non-traditional
grains).
New
extremes
Lately,
brewers have been “pushing the envelope”, trying to see who can make the most
bitter beer or the beer with the highest alcohol level. Whiskey distillers are
doing the same. Whiskeys have been introduced within the past year that are two
to three times more smoky than existing whiskeys on the market.
“Designer”
whiskeys
Some
distillers are making very small quantities of time-intensive, high-cost,
high-quality whiskeys. They’re using the finest wood, the best barley, the
purest water, etc., and carefully monitor them through each phase of their
production life.
Imagine
a child growing up in the best surroundings, with the most loving parents, the
best clothing, first-class health care, and the finest education. This is the
whiskey equivalent (with a price tag to match).
Blends
of malts
As
I mentioned above, Scotch whiskies are usually either single malt or blended
(containing combinations of single malt and grain whisky). However, there’s a
tiny, emerging, and often misunderstood category of whiskies made only from
single malts from different distilleries, with none of the lighter grain
whiskies added. They are richer and more flavorful than blended whiskies. (They
have, in the past, been referred to as “pure” malts or “vatted” malts.)
If
you ever see a Scotch whisky being described as a “blended malt” or “a blend of
malts”, you’ll now know what this means.