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Suntory Rising
Whisky: North of the Border
by John Hansell
"So, what do you like to drink?" I asked the cab driver, making small talk, as he drove me to my hotel from the Toronto airport.
"I don't drink anything during the weekdays," he replied, "but on the weekends I'll have a rye whisky or two."
He wasn't referring to Jim Beam Rye, Old Overholt Rye, or one of the new super-premium rye whiskeys being made in Kentucky. He was talking about Canadian whisky.
So many people throughout Canada-and the rest of the world, for that matter-think Canadian whisky is rye whisky, even though rye is only a minor grain component in Canadian whisky.
Guess what? They're right! Sort of, anyway. Canadian law allows the words "Canadian Whisky," "Canadian Rye Whisky," and "Rye Whisky" to be used interchangeably.
Every bottle of Canadian whisky could legally be labeled as "rye whisky," even though the main ingredient for most of Canadian whisky is corn (there are other oddities: see sidebar #1). By contrast, the American rye whiskeys mentioned above must legally contain at least 51% rye. If the majority of what comprises Canadian whisky isn't rye whisky, then why do so many people (including the Canadian legislature) call it rye whisky?
Two (or more) Whiskies in One
Nearly all Canadian whisky is a blend of two primary components: a very light "base" whisky and a heavier "flavoring" whisky. Put simply, the light "base" whisky's mash bill (the grain component) is usually very high in corn and is produced in a manner similar to making vodka. The flavoring whisky, which is the minor component of the blend, generally has a mash bill that's high in rye. The flavoring whisky may be a pure rye whisky, or the rye might be a smaller component of the mash bill, similar to a bourbon's mash bill. Sometimes, the flavoring whisky will be a blend of both of these types (i.e., rye and "bourbon-like" whiskies).
So, it's the "flavoring whisky" component of the final blend that incorporates the "rye" connotation that is associated with Canadian whisky. What you need to understand, as a consumer, is that it's a minor component.
It is the base whisky that makes Canadian whisky lighter in body and flavor (and usually less expensive) when compared to bourbon or single malt scotch. In fact, of all the major whisky producing countries in the world, Canadian whisky is the lightest.
As a lighter whisky, Canadian whisky has its advantages and disadvantages. The down side is that it isn't going to be as rich and full-bodied as a single malt scotch or bourbon. Indeed, it would be unfair to even judge it against those categories. You don't put a featherweight boxer in the ring with a heavyweight boxer and hope for a fair match.
Multi-Talented, Multi-Tasking
I once heard a derogatory comment by a scotch drinker that Canadian whisky is nothing more than brown vodka, which is very unfair. What Canadian whisky lacks in weight, it makes up for in grace, versatility, and nimbleness. Many scotch drinkers I know give up drinking scotch in the summer months. They say it's just too heavy. Canadian whisky is a suitable whisky year round, including the hotter months. It is a lighter, more refreshing drink, and it drinks favorably on the rocks. It's no surprise that Canadian whisky's biggest markets are in the south.
Canadian whisky also goes well in cocktails. Mike Haering, brand manager for Canadian Mist, describes it best: "Canadian Mist is light, smooth, mellow, and youthful. It is great in cocktails because you pick up a hint of the whisky's flavor in the cocktail. Robust spirits like bourbon, scotch, and cognac will often dominate a cocktail. Lighter 'white' spirits like rum and vodka can get lost in a cocktail. But with Canadian whisky, it is much easier to achieve a balance of flavors between the spirit and the mixer."
So, when you think about enjoying a Canadian whisky (and you should), you will want to consider drinking it in one of three ways. Try it as a cocktail enhancement: to add to, but not dominate, a cocktail's flavors. It can be a simple refreshment: on the rocks, perhaps with a splash of water or seltzer. Or you can enjoy it as a sipping whisky: neat or with a splash of water.
There are Canadian whiskies that fit smartly in each of these categories, which is what makes Canadian whiskies so versatile. Here are some of my recommendations.
Cocktails
What you want here is a clean, crisp, youthful, whisky that's not expensive. Cocktail blending is like singing in a choir, not solo. The whisky just needs to harmonize with the rest of the singers. Products like Canadian Mist, Black Velvet, Seagram's V.O., and Canadian Club 6 year old will work nicely. You can use higher-priced whiskies, and they might enhance your drinking pleasure, but I don't think it is necessary.
Refreshment
The primary flavor ingredient here is the whisky. Now you're singing solo, but with some background music. The whiskies mentioned above will work fine, but you might want to consider upgrading to the next level. Pay a little more and get a little more flavor. Try Crown Royal, Black Velvet Reserve, Pendleton, Canadian Club Reserve, or Classic 12 year old.
Sipping
Now you're signing a capella. These whiskies also work well on the rocks, but they're good enough to sip neat or with a little water. Try Crown Royal Special Reserve, Crown Royal XR, Canadian Club Sherry Cask, Glen Breton Rare (a single malt, pot still whisky similar to scotch) or Forty Creek Barrel Select.
Canadian whisky should be part of every whisky drinker's pleasurable experiences, particularly during the warmer seasons, when you yearn for a lighter and more refreshing whisky, or when you're in the mood for a cocktail. As with most of life's pleasures, to fully appreciate Canadian whisky, you must first understand what it is. And what it isn't.
Other World Classics:
Suntory Rising
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