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89
Longmorn 16 year old, 48%, $90
Longmorn is now being bottled one year older. Whisky companies seem to be discontinuing odd-year whiskies. Bowmore recently extended their 17 year old to 18. Ironically, in both instances, the older whiskies serve up more sherry and fruit. Both the Longmorn 15 and Bowmore 17 were considered benchmark whiskies, so these changes weren’t without risk. Still, in both instances, the new expressions won’t disappoint. This new Longmorn shows a mouth-coating maltiness—Longmorn’s signature characteristic. Along with this, there’s ripe barley, honeyed fruit (peach, with subtle sultana and pineapple), gently complex nuts (almonds, brazil nuts), and a hint of chocolate-covered coconut. A lush, fruity-sweet dram that lingers long on the palate. True Longmorn devotees will still want to purchase a bottle of the 15 year old while they can.
(4th Quarter 2007 Issue-Vol. 16#4)
86
Blackadder Single Cask #1101 (distilled at Longmorn) 1972 Vintage, 31 year old, 45% ABV, $135
A big and sappy Longmorn, with notes of chewy toffee, juicy oak, candied fruit, sandalwood, citrus and even some distant smoke. The standard distillery issue of Longmorn 15 year old itself is a big whisky-one of the biggest in Speyside with its rich, malty foundation-but this expression kicks it up a notch. Aging 31 years in a sherry butt injects this whisky with a lot more sherry character along with those woody, citrus spicy notes found in so many older whiskies. While not as clean as the distillery issue and its maltiness is somewhat masked, there’s a lot going on here to entertain the palate. And although one could argue that the sherry is a bit extreme, the equally extreme dry, spicy oak notes provide ample contrast.
(2nd Quarter 2004 Issue-Vol. 13#2)
85
Duncan Taylor (distilled at Longmorn), 29 year old, 1973 vintage, 47.6%, $160
Longmorn’s signature is a thick mouth-coating, honeyed maltiness, which is almost chewy in texture. While delicious in its teens, its personality lends itself to aging, because its maltiness provides a good counterpoint to the resinous dry oak notes which are usually imparted to older whiskies. This whisky is no exception. Notes of honey, vanilla malt, and subtle fruit dovetail nicely with the dry, resinous, polished leather-like contributions from 29 years in oak. Nice long finish.
(4th Quarter 2004 Issue-Vol. 13#4)
85
Mackillop’s Choice (distilled at Longmorn, 1966, 43%)
Style: Speyside single malt scotch
Color: Walnut
Aroma: Richly sherried and thick, with notes of nuts and toffee. Wood resins contribute spice and variety. Fruitcake at Christmas.
Palate: Thick, chewy in texture, and quite ripe. Again the fruitcake. Very deep and mature with some underlying maltiness. Dry, spicy, oak notes fight off all that sherry and add balance and complexity. Long, soothing finish.
General Comments: You have to like older, very sherried whiskies. If you do, you’ll like this one. Fortunately, Longmorn is big enough in spirit to handle the sherry and extensive aging, but the distillery character does struggle to come through. Great for after dinner, with a cigar or as a nightcap.
Price: approx. $150. Available in Kappy’s (Boston), Ambassador (NYC) and Orlanders (Brooklyn) (imported by Royal Wine Corp., 718/384-2400).
(4th Quarter 2003 Issue-Vol. 12#4)
84
Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Longmorn, 30 year old, 40%)
Amber color. Rich, malty aroma with notes of vanilla, honey, oak, and floral undertones. Thick, mouth-coating texture. Flavors are big and malty, with notes of honey and vanilla up front, then becoming rather dry with oak and subtle citrus. Huge, long dry finish.
Style: Speyside single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approximately $140. Limited availability (imported by Classic Wine Imports, 617/469-5799).
The Longmorn distillery is one of the best kept secrets of Speyside. Its house character is big, malty and mouth-coating. This one is quite mature, with plenty of dry oak notes-especially on the finish. Fortunately, the whisky is big enough to stand up to all those years in oak, but I would have liked a bit of sherry influence to balance the oak.
(4th Quarter 2001 Issue-Vol. 10#4)
83
Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Longmorn), 15 year old, 1989 vintage, 46%, $65
A nicely clean Longmorn, expressing floral notes (especially violets) and bright fruit (lemon, lime, cantelope, plums), supported interwoven notes of honey, rich malt, bread pudding, dates and vanilla. The classic Longmorn viscosity is there, and this thickness is tamed by a very pleasing spicy, dry oak finish, with a hint of salt. I could drink this stuff anytime. G&M’s move to 46% has certainly benefited this whisky. (Bottled exclusively for Binny’s Beverage Depot.)
(3rd Quarter 2005 Issue-Vol. 14#3)
81
Scott’s Selection (distilled at Longmorn), 33 year old, 1971 Vintage, 53.5%, $170
Succulent, sappy, with plenty of oak. This whisky is quite fruity, with tangerine, lemon, and strawberries. It is balanced by fat barley, almonds and damp oak. It is not as polished and rounded as the Gordon & Macphail Longmorn reviewed above. Indeed, the fruity, damp oak notes can be quite dominant in this whisky. However, the whisky evolves constantly on the palate and there are some minty, spicy underlying notes which add intrigue. Definitely save this one
for after dinner.
(3rd Quarter 2005 Issue-Vol. 14#3)
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